Things to Do in Orkney For First-Time Visitors
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Did you know that Scotland has over 90 islands inhabited by at least one person? While the Isle of Skye is the most visited, several others are well worth considering, especially Orkney in the Northern Isles. This archipelago is a little trickier to get to, but its remoteness, landscape, Neolithic sites, and diving opportunities draws in holiday-makers looking for a slower-paced trip. Does that sound like your style of travel? Let’s take a look at things to do in Orkney for first-timers.
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What to Do in Orkney During Your First Visit
Enjoy the Ferry Crossing
Since Orkney doesn’t have a bridge (like Skye), most visitors arrive by ferry as foot passengers planning to join a pre-booked tour or with a car ready for a road trip.
There are three options for getting the ferry.
Aberdeen to Kirkwall with NorthLink
- A shorter drive from the central belt, Edinburgh to Aberdeen is 121 miles
- The longest ferry crossing at six hours, the passage can be choppy
- Ample space for cars if you pre-book your ticket
- Huge ferry with a restaurant, bar, cinema, a play area, seating areas, cabins, and outdoor space
- The ferry arrives in Kirkwall at 11pm which may require driving in the dark
- Foot passengers can take the train or bus to Aberdeen and walk to the ferry port
- Kirkwall is the biggest town in Orkney, with the most accommodation and restaurants
Scrabster (Near Thurso) to Stromness with NorthLink
- A longer drive from the central belt, Edinburgh to Scrabster is 265 miles
- A shorter ferry crossing starting from the early morning
- Ideal for those looking to explore the North Coast 500 or Inverness and surrounding areas
- Ample space for cars if you pre-book your ticket
- Huge ferry with a restaurant, bar, play area, seating areas, and outdoor space
- Thurso Train Station is a 40-minute walk from Scrabster
- Stromness is a cute, small port town in the southwestern area of the Mainland
Gills Bay to St Margaret’s Hope with Pentland Ferries
- Just south of Thurso, so it is a long drive from the central belt
- Arrives in less than an hour
- Compact ferry with a cafe, play area, seating areas, and outdoor space
- Space for cars if you pre-book your ticket
I took the ferry from Aberdeen to Kirkwall and stayed in Kirkwall for three nights.
Then, for my last night in Orkney, I moved to Stromness.
I left the island from there early in the morning and drove from Scrabster to Perthshire, where I stayed overnight to break up my journey home to Fife.
Kirkwall Dining and Shopping
Kirkwall is the most populated town in Orkney but still very walkable.
Albert Street is lined with shops selling souvenirs, clothes, and typical town essentials like banks and salons.
Check out The Brig Larder, Archive Coffee, Argo’s Bakery, Kirkness and Gorie, and Judith Glue for food and edible souvenirs such as whisky, cheese, fudge, and marshmallows.
Local produce here is a big deal!
Distilleries
If you prefer to sample whisky from the source, you are in for a treat at Orkney’s distilleries.
The Orkney Distillery is just a minute’s walk from Albert Street, Highland Park is less than a five-minute drive, and Scapa is less than 10 minutes away.
Gin and vodka are also distilled on the island at Deerness in Newhall, and craft beer can be found at Orkney Brewery near Stromness.
Note: Check opening times for seasonal closures.
St Magnus Cathedral
At the end of Albert Street stands the magnificent St Magnus Cathedral, founded in 1137 by Viking Earl Rognvald.
It has a mix of red and yellow sandstone that medieval master masons fashioned.
Inside the building, you can see the story of the cathedral in tapestry form.
There is also an interesting sculpture of the Orcadian Dr John Rae, an explorer buried in the cemetery.
The Stromness Museum has more about his story.
Scapa Beach and Memorial
Scapa Beach is a gorgeous sandy stretch, sitting under the watchful eye of Scapa Distillery.
There is a car park and toilets.
The HMS Royal Oak Memorial, next to the car park, remembers Scapa Flow’s role during the war.
The Royal Oak battleship was the first WW2 to be sunk on October 13–14, 1939, when 835 men and boys lost their lives to the attack made by a German U-boat.
Initially, the number was thought to be 834; however, Orkney wartime historian Brian Budge’s research states that 835 lost their lives.
Churchill Barriers
In response to the sinking of HMS Royal Oak, Winston Churchill ordered the construction of the Churchill Barriers, making the four entrances to Scapa Flow more secure.
However, not enough people were available to build the barriers, so Churchill had to get creative with international humanitarian laws.
He saw that 550 Italian prisoners of war captured in North Africa were moved to Camp 60 on Lamb Holm, and 530 men were sent to Camp 34 on the island of Burray.
These men were responsible for building the causeways and maintaining the camps.
Today, the barriers connect the surrounding Orkney’s islands so locals and visitors can drive between them.
Note: It is difficult to get an exact number of POWs at each camp from online sources as they differ.
Italian Chapel
When the prisoners requested a chapel, they were tasked with creating a place of worship out of two Nissen huts, prefabricated steel structures.
One prisoner, Domenico Chiocchetti, was a talented artist.
He painted the Madonna and Child above the altar, inspired by Nicolo Barabino’s art.
Other prisoners were Giuseppe Palumbi, a blacksmith, and Domenico Buttapasta, a cement worker.
The Italian Chapel is one of the most recognisable landmarks in Orkney and a must on every itinerary; it’s honestly so beautiful.
Diving in Orkney
Why settle for seeing the barriers from above when you can go deep below?
Not only can you see the barriers up close during a dive, but you can also swim between sunken warships and spot sea life.
I did a “Try and Dive” with Kraken Diving, a 25-minute (ish) experience led by a professional guide.
The Kraken team provided everything needed; I just turned up in a long-sleeved top without a hood, yoga pants, and warm socks, which I wore underneath the dry suit, flippers and mask.
The dive itself was fascinating, with the sea floor looking like foliage!
We spotted hermit crabs, common crabs, red velvet crabs, pollock, wrasse, scorpion fish, sea urchins, and starfish while slowly making our way through the WW1 British Blockship SS Gartmore, which was sunk on September 14, 1915, and the WW2 British Blockship Empire Seaman, sunk on June 30, 1940.
I’ve dived once before in Cuba but have no formal qualifications—just curiosity and a desire to try new things!
If you are more experienced, you can dive with less support or even do a multi-day diving tour if you are an established diver.
Standing Stones of Stenness
Along with the Ring of Brodgar and Skara Brae, The Standing Stones of Stenness is part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site.
There are four remaining stones from the original 12.
They are six metres in height and are thought to be the earliest henge monuments in the British Isles, dating back as far as 5,400 years.
Ring of Brodgar
If you can time your visit to the prehistoric Ring of Brodgar for sunset, you will capture a lovely glow between the 20+ remaining stones.
However, you can’t walk between them like you can at Stenness.
The stones are shaped in a circular formation on top of a fort-like grassy area you walk around.
Historically, 60 stones were built as a ceremonial site that dates back to the 3rd millennium BC!
Note: The car park is about a five-minute walk from the landmark, but guided paths and disabled parking are closer to the ring.
Skara Brae
Known as the best-preserved Neolithic settlement in Western Europe, Skara Brae is a popular attraction which features a mix of indoor and outdoor exhibitions.
The self-guided tour starts with a short film and is followed by a walk through the small museum, which describes life during the Stone Age.
Then, the door leads to the outdoor reconstruction of an ancient home.
After that, the path passes markers highlighting other milestones, such as the pyramids being built, to give you an idea of the timeframe Skara Brae is portraying.
The village is cornered off, so visitors walk around it to preserve it for future audiences to discover.
The views over the Bay of Skaill are epic.
Historic Scotland looks after Skara Brae, so if you have an Explorer Pass, you can see it as part of this ticket or book online.
The ticket also includes entry to Skaill House, a historic manor featured on the List of Scottish Buildings of Special Architectural or Historic Interest; the bathroom might surprise you!
During summer, there is a food truck and dining space in the garden of Skaill House.
Read next: Do I Need a Historic Scotland Pass?
Broch of Gurness
Unlike Skara Brae, visitors can walk among the Iron Age settlement at Broch of Gurness.
It is said to have a Viking grave; the skeleton of a woman with a handful of possessions was discovered in 1939.
On your way to the broch, be sure to stop by Mistra Store in Evie and say hi to the owner, Damien, from me—Gemma, at Hiya Scotland.
Yesnaby
This is honestly the most glorious free attraction in Orkney!
If you crave a rugged landscape with wild waves, Yesnaby is it.
Park up and walk to the left, hugging the fence and keeping clear of the cliffside edge; be warned, people have lost their lives at Yesnaby.
After around 15 minutes of walking, you will arrive at the Yesnaby Stack, also known as Yesnaby Castle.
Don’t expect anything with a roof or fort; this is a sea stack.
If you have time, follow the trodden path in the grass to see more of the island’s edge, then return to the car park via the same path you walked in on.
There are no toilets at Yesnaby; it is probably the only Orkeny attraction without loos.
I was impressed with how many facilities are dotted around the island!
Tip: To get to the correct starting point, type “Yesnaby Car Park,” not just “Yesnaby,” into Google Maps. The map should show the sea straight ahead. Don’t turn left, as this takes you to a farm!
Stromness
Stromness has to be one of the most unusual towns in Scotland!
Its main street, Victoria Street, which leads to Dundas Street, has a very narrow road that cars drive through; I swear I held my breath the first time I tried it.
You can easily spend a few hours visiting the independent shops, Pier Arts Centre, and the surprisingly big Stromness Museum.
For food, there are a couple of cafes, a deli called The Bayleaf Delicatessen, and pub grub at The Ferry Inn (I stayed here); it is advised to make reservations for restaurants in advance, as there is limited choice in this compact town.
From here, you can hop on the ferry to Scrabster, which takes you back to Scotland’s mainland at the tip of the North Coast 500.
I visited Stromness twice; I really like being near water and wandering through port towns.
I enjoy the clanking noises and swooshing waves; it’s soothing!
What about you?
Final Words
Orkney is an open-air museum for visitors who appreciate history from the Stone and Iron Ages as well as the World Wars.
Diving enthusiasts will thoroughly enjoy the underwater experience, and nature fans shouldn’t miss the views at wild Yesnaby.
Those who prefer souvenir shops and sipping coffee in cafes will find Kirkwall and Stromness scratch that itch.
Just check for opening times and make reservations in advance for dining.
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